STUDI CAMPURAN SURFACTANT UNTUK MENENTUKAN FUNGSI SOLUBILIZER DAN FIXATIVE PADA INDUSTRI PARFUM

K N Adli, B Pramudono

Abstract


Kualitas parfum ditentukan oleh kejernihan dan longlasting parfum. Campuran surfaktan dapat meningkatkan kualitas parfum dengan biaya produksi yang murah. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengkaji rasio campuran surfaktan untuk menentukan fungsi solubilizer dan fixative. Bibit parfum yang digunakan dalam penelitian ini adalah eugenol, surfaktan dengan fungsi solubilizer adalah portasol 40 dan tween 80 sedangkan surfaktan dengan fungsi fixative adalah glucam P20 dan patchouli alkohol. Rasio yang digunakan pada penelitian ini antara lain rasio glucam p20 : portasol (r G/P), rasio portasol 40 : tween 80 (r P/T) dan rasio glucam P20 : patchouli alkohol (r G/PA). Hasil penelitian menunjukkan campuran surfaktan dapat meningkatkan kejernihan dan longlasting parfum lebih baik daripada surfaktan tunggal. Optimasi menggunakan RSM didapatkan rasio campuran yang paling berpengaruh terhadap kejernihan adalah r P/T sedangkan rasio yang paling berpengaruh terhadap longlasting parfum adalah r G/PA. Hasil optimum dengan respon turbiditas r G/P = 3,59; r P/T = 0,48; r G/PA = 0,41 dan respon longlasting r G/P = 4,51; r P/T = 0,40; r G/PA = 0,42 menghasilkan turbiditas 0,0489 NTU serta longlasting 3,68 jam.

Perfume quality is determined by the clarity and longlasting perfume. Surfactant mixture can improve the quality of perfumes at low production costs. This study objectives are to examines the blending ratio surfactant and to determine the function of solubilizer and fixative. Perfume seeds used in this study is eugenol, surfactants with solubilizer function is Portasol 40 and Tween 80 while surfactant with fixative function are glucam P20 and patchouli alcohol. The ratio used in this study include glucam ratio P20: portasol (r G/P), the ratio portasol 40: tween 80 (rP/T) and the ratio of glucam P20: patchouli alcohol (r G/PA). The results showed a mixture of surfactants may improve the clarity and longlasting perfume is better than a single surfactant. RSM optimization using a mixture ratios obtained the most influence on clarity is rP/T while the ratio of the most influential on longlasting perfume is r G/PA. Turbidity optimum results with the response r G/P = 3.59; r P/T = 0.48; r G/PA = 0.41 and r longlasting response G/P = 4.51; r P/T = 0.40; r G/PA = 0.42 yield 0.0489 NTU Turbidity and longlasting 3.68 hours.



Keywords


mixed surfactants, solubilizer, fixative, perfume

Full Text:

PDF

References


N78-0-8050-8037-7.

Caio PF, Manuela P, Mascarenhas, Fiorella M, Lima BG, Rafael PRF, Oliveira, Leandro R, Deborah Q, & Falcao. 2013. HLB value, an important parameter for the development of essential oil phytopharmaceuticals. Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia Brazilian Journal of Pharmacognosy 23(1): 108-114.

Edris AE & Mohamed AS. 2010. Solubilization of some flavor and fragrance oils in surfactant/ water system. Appl Sci J 8(1): 86 91.

Edwards M. 2006. Fragrances of the World 2006. Crescent House Publishing. ISBN 0-9756097-1-8

Evi D & Zulkarnain. 2012. Perfume Bottles Design Influenced To Purchasing Intention In Adolecents. Skripsi. Sumatra Utara: Departemen Psikologi Industri dan Organisasi Fakultas Psikologi Universitas Sumatra Utara (USU).

Fahimeh K, Homeira E, & Yadollah Y, 2011. Optimization of ultrasound-assisted emulsification microextraction with solidification of floating organic droplet followed by high performance liquid chromatography for the analysis of phthalate esters in cosmetic and environmental water samples Microchem J 99: 2633.

Kamarei F, Homeira E, & Yadollah Y. 2011. Optimization of ultrasound-assisted emulsification microextraction with solidification of floating organic droplet followed by high performance liquid chromatography for the analysis of phthalate esters in cosmetic and environmental water samples. Microchem J 99 : 2633

Kaushik K & Bidyut KP. 2013. Physicochemical investigation of mixed urfactant reverse micelles: water solubilization and conductometric studies. J Colloid Surf 433: 154 165.

Lubrizol, 2009. Use of Fragrance with Fixative and Solubilizer. Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. / 9911 Brecksville Road, Cleveland, Ohio 44141-3247.

Mahdi J, Joshita D, & Ledy M. 2009. Pembuatan Mikroemulsi Dari Minyak Buah Merah. Majalah Ilmu Kefarmasian 4(1): 1827.

Nuryanti & Salimy DH. 2008. Metode Permukaan Respon dan Aplikasinya pada Optimasi Eksperimen Kimia. Risalah Lokakarya Komputasi dalam Sains dan Teknologi Nuklir, 373-391.

Opara CC, Akani CK, Igboko N. 2012. Extraction of fragrance from tangerine (Citrus reticulata). Int J Sci Eng Invest 1(11): 18 -21.

Parekhan M, Aljaff, Emad M, Banaz O, & Rasheed. 2013. Identification of synthetic perfume by infrared and optical properties. J Pure App Chem Sci 1(1): 19 30.

Ramya HG, Palanimuthu V, & Dayanandakumar R, 2013. Patchouli in fragrances-incense stick production from patchouli spent charge powder. Agric Eng Int 15(1): 187-193.

Siti A & Masril C. 2012. Separation of patchouli alcohol from patcouli oil by fractional distillation method. J Tek Ind Pert 21(2), 89-93.

Sofie IF & Tri DW. 2015. Pengaruh penggunaan lesitin dan cmc terhadap sifat fisik, kimia, dan organoleptik margarin sari apel manalagi (Malus Sylfertris Mill) tersuplementasi minyak kacang tanah. Jurnal Pangan dan Agroindustri 3(1): 226-236.

Surawut W, Ampa J, & Pornchai R. 2013. Sodium carboxymethyl chitosan as a fixative for eau de cologne. Trop J Pharmaceut Res 12(1):45 -49.

Thomas L, Roberto C, Maldonado, Valrie M, Jean MA & Vronique NR. 2014. Fragrance solubilization in temperature insensitive aqueous microemulsions based on synergistic mixtures of nonionic and anionic surfactants. Colloid Surface A 458: 8595.

Wolfgang S & Klaus P. 2007. Perfumes. Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (7th ed). Wiley, 23.


Refbacks

  • There are currently no refbacks.