Wearing Your Heart on Your Sleeve:K-pop Merchandise in Validating Identity

Authors

  • Sharifah Faizah Syed Mohammed Institut Seni Kreatif Nusantara (INSAN), Universiti Teknologi MARA Author
  • Nur Maizatul Balqis Lil Critter Workshop Sdn. Bhd, Damansara Perdana Author

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.15294/harmonia.v25i1.24450

Keywords:

K-pop; merchandise; identity; material culture; fandom

Abstract

K-pop merchandise plays a vital role in shaping fan identity, functioning beyond its commercial value. This study explores how merchandise enables identity construction and social belonging within the global K-pop fandom. This research employs qualitative discourse analysis of X (formerly Twitter) tweets and a survey of pertinent literature on fandom and material culture to delineate four principal functions of merchandise: as emblems of loyalty, instruments for active participation, rites of passage, and enablers of community connectedness. The results indicate that items like lightsticks and photocards serve as emotional and symbolic anchors, signifying personal achievements and facilitating social relationships. These objects enable fans to transition from passive consumers to active cultural participants, thereby strengthening identification through ritualized actions and shared beliefs. This study suggests that K-pop items function as hybrid objects—economically valued, emotionally significant, and culturally relevant. It provides insights into the intersection of material culture and identity formation in modern fandoms, especially within the performing arts sectors that generate and uphold idol culture.

References

Appadurai, A. (1988). Introduction: Commodities and the politics of value. In A. Appadurai (Ed.), The social life of things: Commodities in cultural perspective (pp. 3–63). Cambridge University Press.

Adisak, S. (2022). The influence of customer expectations, customer loyalty, customer satisfaction and customer brand loyalty on customer purchasing intentions: A case study of K-POP fans in Thailand. African Journal of Business Management, 16(1), 1–9.

Anderson, B. (2006). Imagined communities: Reflections on the origin and spread of nationalism. Verso Books.

Anderson, C., Balica, E., Balmain, C., Ladevito, P., & Kida, P. (2014). The global impact of South Korean popular culture: Hallyu unbound. Lexington Books.

Aniuranti, A. (2020). The functions of English terms in Korean popular music (K-pop): A register analysis. Surakarta English and Literature Journal, 3(2), 45.

Ardhiyansyah, A., Maharani, D. P., Sari, S. P., & Mansur, U. (2021). K-pop marketing tactics that build fanatical behavior. Nusantara Science and Technology Proceedings, 4 (4), 66–70.

Asokan, A. (2021). The archival wave: Communities represented by & constructed in K-pop fan archives. The IJournal: Graduate Student Journal of the Faculty of Information, 6(2).

Baasir, S. (2018). I collect, therefore I am. In Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on South East Asia Studies, 107-117.

Bǎobǎo [@ShaBeMeow]. (2022, November 8). What is Kep1er to me? @official_kep1er is a group that makes me buy all of their stuffs... [Post]. X. https://x.com/ShaBeMeow/status/1589916472209702912

Barrière, L., & Finkel, R. (2020). The material culture of music festival fandoms. European Journal of Cultural Studies, 25(2), 479–497.

Baym, N. K., & Burnett, R. (2009). Amateur experts: International fan labour in Swedish independent music. International Journal of Cultural Studies, 12(5), 433-449.

Biscaia, R., Hedlund, D. P., Dickson, G., & Naylor, M. (2018). Conceptualising and measuring fan identity using stakeholder theory. European Sport Management Quarterly, 18(4), 459–481.https://doi.org/10.1080/16184742.2017.1413580

Booth, P. (2010). Digital fandom: New media studies. Peter Lang.

BTS Army Census. (2022, July 9). ARMY Census 2022 results! [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4qq OR4QN2Q

Calhoun, C. (2016). The importance of imagined communities—and Benedict Anderson. Annual Review. Debats. Revista de Cultura, Poder i Societat, 1, 11–16.

Chadborn, D., Edwards, P., & Reysen, S. (2017). Displaying fan identity to make friends. Intensities, 9, 87–97. https://intensitiescultmedia.com/wp- content/uploads/2017/05/7-chadborn- edwards-and-reysen-fan-identity2.pdf

Chandra, E. V. (2022). The influence of fanaticism and consumptive behavior towards financial literacy in K-pop fans: A study in an entrepreneurship-based university. Jurnal Entrepreneur Dan Entrepreneurship, 11(2), 89–100. https://doi.org/10.37715/jee.v11i2.2753

Chen, L., Chen, G., Ma, S., & Wang, S. (2022). Idol worship: How does it influence fan consumers’ brand loyalty? Frontiers in Psychology, 13, 850670. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2022.850670

Cheriyah, Y., & Hadi, A. R. (2022). Indonesian K- pop fans: The relationship between ARMY- BTS identity and their demographic. Journal of Social Studies (JSS), 18(2), 249–264. https://doi.org/10.21831/jss.v18i2.51425

de Castilho Sacoman, V. (2021). K-popper activism: The platform of fan activism in times of the covid-19 pandemic. Bulletin of the Transilvania University of Brasov. Series IV: Philology and Cultural Studies, 14 (63)(1), 87–104. https://doi.org/10.31926/but.pcs.2021.63.14. 1.6

de Certeau, M. (1984). The practice of everyday life (S. Rendall, Trans.). University of California Press.

dee. [@asahiflare]. (2022, November 12). This is sad they only got the photocards. [Image Attached] [Post]. X. https://twitter.com/asahiflare/status/15913 14479408910336

Desnika, K., & Tambunan, S. M. G. (2023). Consuming K-Pop photocards: Mediated intimacy in Indonesian fan practices. Athena: Journal of Social, Culture and Society, 1(3), 154-160

Ganghariya, G., & Kanozia, R. (2020). Proliferation of Hallyu wave and Korean popular culture across the world: A systematic literature review from 2000-2019. Journal of Content, Community & Communication, 11(6), 177–207. https://doi.org/10.31620/JCCC.06.20/14

Gooch, B. (2008). The communication of fan culture: The impact of new media on science fiction and fantasy fandom [Thesis]. Georgia Institute of Technology.

Grover, C. [@amidocumentary], J, Z. & S. [@BTS_iTunesZA], & Ringland, K. E. [@liltove. (2022, April 26). The 2022 ARMY Census. BTS ARMY CENSUS.

Hanief, S., Handayani, P. W., Azzahro, F., & Pinem,A. A. (2019). Parasocial relationship analysis on digital celebrities follower’s purchase intention. Proceedings - 2019 2nd International Conference of Computer and Informatics Engineering: Artificia Intelligence Roles in Industrial Revolution 4.0, IC2IE 2019, 12–17. https://doi.org/10.1109/IC2IE47452.2019.89 40853

Hapsari, D. (2019). Korean roleplayer dan dampaknya terhadap kepribadian di dunia nyata (studi kasus pada remaja). https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.31227/o sf.io/2txrk

He, Y., & Sun, Y. (2022). Breaking up with my idol: A qualitative study of the psychological adaptation process of renouncing fanship. Frontiers in Psychology, 13, 1030470.

Herman, T. (2020a, March 16). In K-pop, merch is as important as music. Billboard. https://www.billboard.com/pro/for-the-k-pop-industry-merch-is-as-important-as-the- music/

Herman, T. (2020b, March 16). Why K-pop fans still buy CDs (even when they can’t play them). Billboard. https://www.billboard.com/pro/why-k-pop-fans-still-buy-cds-even-when-they-cant-play-them/

Hills, M. (2002). Fan cultures. Routledge

Hodder, I. (2012). Entangled: An archaeology of the relationships between humans and things. Wiley-Blackwell.

Horton, D., & Wohl, R. R. (1956). Mass communication and para-social interaction: Observations on intimacy at a distance. Psychiatry, 19(3), 215–229. https://doi.org/10.1080/00332747.1956.11023049

Huda [@exopinksure]. (2022, April 1). Pero no joke. It’s hard to leave K-Pop. There was a time when I was really thinking... [Post]. X. https://x.com/exopinksure/status/1509752075143741445

Jes [@pengyugaem]. (2022, October 6). Remember this during smtown suwon? That time that the venue was filled w green light... [Post]. X. https://twitter.com/pengyugaem/status/1581541000002310147

Rojo, J. J., Flores, G., Bunagan, K. F., Dela Cruz, P. J., & Dionisio, J. R. (2022). Influence of digital media advertisements of Kpop industry on selected young adults in Manila, Philippines. Journal of Social Science Research and Review, 29(10), 29–45. https://doi.org/10.47814/ijssrr.v5i10.567

jmCartt [@jmCartt]. (2022, April 1).

There was a time also that I really want to leave K-pop and sell all my merch due to financial problems. [Post]. X. https://x.com/jmCartt/status/1509850053057294336

Desnika, K., & Tambunan, S. M. G. (2023). Consuming K-pop photocards: Mediated intimacy in Indonesian fan practices. Athena: Journal of Social, Culture and Society, 1(3), 154– 160. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.58905/ athena.v1i3.137

fai[@cyjlvrs]. (2022, November 3).

First June 2022, my mom allowed me to go to the concert, then waited for months... [Post]. X. https://x.com/cyjlvrs/status/1588018856832151557

Fany, R., Rauf, D., & Dianrama, L. (2022, February 10). The K-pop fans economy: Emotional bond, endless support and overconsumption. The Finery Report. https://tfr.news/articles/2022/2/10/the-k-pop-fans-economy-emotional-bond-endless-support-and-overconsumption

Frederica, D., Alexandra Johanna Rachel Pongoh, I., & Iskandar, D. (2023). Pemahaman penggemar Korean Pop atas bea masuk pembelian merchandise. Owner (Riset & Jurnal Akuntansi), 7(2),1765–1771. https://doi.org/10.33395/owner.v7i2.1434

Jones, S., Cronin,J., & Piacentini, M. G. (2022). Celebrity brand break-up: Fan experiences of para-loveshock. Journal of Business Research, 145, 720–731. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.JBUSRES.2022.03.0 39

Jung, S., & Shim, D. (2013). Social distribution: K- pop fan practices in Indonesia and the ‘Gangnam Style’ phenomenon. International Journal of Cultural Studies, 17(5), 485–501. https://doi.org/10.1177/1367877913505173

Kartikasari, H., & Sudrajat, A. (2022). Makna pembelian album fisik bagi penggemar budaya pop Korea. Jurnal Analisa Sosiologi, 11(3). https://doi.org/10.20961/jas.v11i3.59242

Khelsea, Y. O., Tranggono, D., Claretta, D., & Achmad, Z. A. (2021). Etnografi Virtual Perilaku Impulsive Buying Remaja Muslimah Penggemar K-Pop di Surabaya. Jurnal Komunikasi Islam, 11(2), 264–289. https://doi.org/10.15642/jki.2021.11.2.264- 289

Kim, P., & Hutt, E. (2021). K-pop as a Social Movement: Case Study of BTS and Their Fandom ARMY. Journal of Student Research, 10(3), 1–15. https://doi.org/10.47611/jsrhs.v10i3.1772

Kozinets, R. V. (2002). The field behind the screen: Using netnography for marketing research in online communities. Journal of Marketing Research, 39(1), 61-72.

Laffan, D. A. (2021). Positive psychosocial outcomes and fanship in K-Pop fans: A social identity theory perspective. Psychological Reports, 124(5), 2272–2285.

Le, H. Q. (2018). Effective marketing strategies in K- pop industry [Thesis]. Seinajok University of Applied Sciences.

Lee, S., Tak, J., Kwak, E., & Lim, T. (2020). Fandom, social media, and identity work: The emergence of virtual community through the pronoun “we”. Psychology of Popular Media, 9(4), 436. https://psycnet.apa.org/journals/ppm/9/ 4/436/

Lynch, K. S. (2020). Fans as transcultural gatekeepers: The hierarchy of BTS’ Anglophone Reddit fandom and the digital East-West media flow. New Media & Society, 24(1), 105–121. https://doi.org/10.1177/1461444820962109

Maros, M., & Abdul Basek, F. N. (2022). Building online social identity and fandom activities of K-pop fans on Twitter. 3L The Southeast Asian Journal of English Language Studies, 28(3), 282–295. https://doi.org/10.17576/3l-2022-2803-18

Maulidia, A., & Aransyah, M. F. (2023). Pengaruh kepercayaan dan harga terhadap keputusan pembelian dan loyalitas pelanggan pada pembelian merchandise K-pop melalui group order. J-MAS (Jurnal Manajemen Dan Sains), 8(1), 1022. https://doi.org/10.33087/jmas.v8i1.1026

Mellins, M. (2007). Dressing up as vampires: Virtual vamps - negotiating female identity in cyberspace. Networking Knowledge: Journal of the MeCCSA Postgraduate Network, 1(2). https://ojs.meccsa.org.uk/index.php/netk now/article/view/21

Merai, R., & Nimkar, N. (2020). Effect of licensed merchandise on fan engagement. Annals of Tropical Medicine and Public Health, 23(17). https://doi.org/10.36295/asro.2020.231743

Merritt, I. (2022, November 14). 11 band merch ideas proven to boost sales, fan loyalty, and excitement. Rush Order Tees. https://www.rushordertees.com/blog/band-merch- ideas/?srsltid=AfmBOoqjBM4JF7EzH6ZBg Zy7PNg_KHI8if_IX1RtB5mtLUlX8K0LV4lr

Mohd Jenol, N. A., & Ahmad Pazil, N. H. (2020). Escapism and motivation: Understanding K- pop fans well-being and identity. Malaysian Journal of Society and Space, 16(4). https://doi.org/10.17576/geo-2020-1604-25

Muslimah, P. H. I., Rosalina, A., Khairani, A., Desiderawi, M., Loviona, L., & Sari, L. (2023). Identitas sosial dan perilaku prososial pada anggota fandom K-Pop. Journal of Indonesian Psychological Science (JIPS), 8(2). https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/e27f/359e7 44aef0749c5243ea220d89f1b81c827.pdf

Ni, L., Xiao, Z., Liu, W., & Wang, Q. (2019). Relationship management as antecedents to public communication behaviors: Examining empowerment and public health among Asian Americans. Public Relations Review, 45(5). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pubrev.2019.10183 5

newjeans never die [@brianphamtastic]. (2022, November 5). Yea after that exhausting voting period for MAISON I think I’m done with voting... [Post]. X. https://x.com/brianphamtastic/status/1588571578375495680

Oh, Y. (2018). Pop city: Korean popular culture and the selling of place. Cornell University Press.

Ortiga, K. (2020, November 18). The price of being a K-pop fan. CNN Phillipines-Life. https://web.archive.org/web/202011190607 53/https:/cnnphilippines.com/life/entertain ment/Music/2020/11/18/kpop-fans- merch.html

Parisa [@SeokjinDadJokez]. (2022, June 15). Hoo boy, don’t we all think it’ll all be a phase [LOL]. I used to be worried if people... [Post]. X. https://x.com/SeokjinDadJokez/status/1536853930340020224

Pawening, A. S. (2023). Social network analysis: K- Pop fans’ social action as digital solidarity via Twitter. Eduvest - Journal of Universal Studies, 3(5), 878–894. https://doi.org/10.59188/eduvest.v3i5.811

Rafdina [@RafdinaHouse]. (2022, August 18). In my country, a lightstick saved someone trapped on a rooftop due to flood, real story... [Post]. X. https://x.com/RafdinaHouse/status/1560179175038009344

Schroy, C., Plante, C. N., Reysen, S., Roberts, S. E., & Gerbasi, K. C. (2016). Different motivations as predictors of psychological connection to fan interest and fan groups in anime, furry, and fantasy sport fandoms. The Phoenix Papers, 2(2), 148–167.

Schramm, H. & Hartmann, T. (2008). The PSI-Process Scales. A new measure to assess the intensity and breadth of parasocial processes. Communications, 33(4), 385-401. https://doi.org/10.1515/COMM.2008.025

Sokolova, K., & Kefi, H. (2020). Instagram and YouTube bloggers promote it, why should I buy? How credibility and parasocial interaction influence purchase intentions. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 53, 101742. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2019.01. 011

Star, S. L., & Griesemer, J. R. (1989). Institutional ecolog, translations and boundary objects: Amateurs and professionals in Berkeley’s Museum of Vertebrate Zoology, 1907-39. Social studies of science, 19(3), 387-420.

Sun, M. (2020). K-pop fan labor and an alternative creative industry: A case study of GOT7 Chinese fans. Global Media and China, 5(4), 389– 406. https://doi.org/10.1177/2059436420954588

Sutton, F. N. (2021). Pro-wrestling fandom and digital archives of wrestling event merchandise. Transformative Works and Cultures, 36. https://doi.org/10.3983/twc.2021.2101

Syahrial, S. M. P. E., & Azib. (2022). Pengaruh Literasi Keuangan, Pengendalian Diri, dan Perilaku Konsumtif terhadap Perilaku Pengelolaan Keuangan pada Penggemar K– Pop. Bandung Conference Series: Business and Management, 2(2). https://doi.org/10.29313/bcsbm.v2i2.3578

Tai, C. (2020, March 28). Exploding the myths behind K-pop. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/global/2020/mar/29/behind-k-pops-perfect-smiles-and-dance-routines-are-tales-of-sexism-and-abuse

Turner, V., Abrahams, R., & Harris, A. (2017). The ritual process: Structure and anti-structure. Routledge.

Valge, C., & Hinsberg, M. (2019, October 2). The capitalist control of K-pop: The idol as a product. International Centre for Defence and Security. https://icds.ee/en/the-capitalist-control-of-k-pop-the-idol-as-a-product/

van Gennep, A. (2019). The rites of passage, second edition. University of Chicago Press. (Original work published 1909)

Weismueller, J., Harrigan, P., Wang, S., & Soutar, G. N. (2020). Influencer endorsements: How advertising disclosure and source credibility affect consumer purchase intention on social media. Australasian Marketing Journal, 28(4), 160–170. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ausmj.2020.03.00 2

Whitson, J. R. (2019). The new spirit of capitalism in the game industry. Television & New Media, 20(8), 789–801. https://doi.org/10.1177/1527476419851086

Yeo, A. (2020, August 16). ‘Emotional support K-pop boys’ help fans with their mental health. https://sea.mashable.com/social- good/11974/emotional-support-k-pop- boys-help-fans-with-their-mental-health

Yeon-soo, K. (2019). 89,000,000 ‘hallyu’ fans worldwide. The Korea Times. https://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/art/2019/01/732_261877.html

Zhang, S., Zhou, C., & Liu, Y. (2020). Consumer purchasing intentions and marketing segmentation of remanufactured new-energy auto parts in China. Mathematical Problems in Engineering, 2020, 1–8. https://doi.org/10.1155/2020/5647383

Zhu, Y. Q., Amelina, D., & Ye, D. C. (2020). Celebrity endorsement and impulsive buying intentions in social commerce-The case of Instagram in Indonesia: Celebrity endorsement. Journal of Electric Commerce in Organizations, 18(1), 1401–1419. https://doi.org/10.4018/JECO.2020010101

Downloads

Published

2025-06-30

Article ID

24450

Issue

Section

Articles

How to Cite

Mohammed, S. F. S., & Balqis, N. M. . (2025). Wearing Your Heart on Your Sleeve:K-pop Merchandise in Validating Identity. Harmonia: Journal of Arts Research and Education, 25(1), 83-98. https://doi.org/10.15294/harmonia.v25i1.24450

Similar Articles

1-10 of 15

You may also start an advanced similarity search for this article.